⚡ Should Pennies Be Eliminated

Wednesday, June 23, 2021 5:15:57 PM

Should Pennies Be Eliminated

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Why do we have the penny? - CNBC Explains

As a writer for The Balance, Kimberly provides insight on the state of the present-day economy, as well as past events that have had a lasting impact. Should America get rid of the penny? The reasons why it shouldn't are mainly emotional and based on the penny's long history. The 10 reasons to get rid of the penny are either practical or financial. They are logical but require a change. Congress must enact a law that eliminates the penny from circulation. It must also direct the U. Mint, a bureau of the U. Treasury, to stop producing them.

Check out the best 10 reasons why the penny should get the ax:. On the flip side, slightly more than half of Americans are emotionally attached to the penny. A poll by Yougov. Many Americans are penny-pinchers. More than half take their pennies when offered as change. The military also found there was no rounding tax. Businesses either rounded up or down to the nearest nickel. Many have an emotional connection to the penny because of its history. The penny started as pure copper. But copper prices were rising. In , the U. Mint added nickel to the copper to cut costs. In , it switched to tin and zinc instead of nickel. In , pennies were made of zinc-coated steel. Copper had become essential to the war effort during World War II.

The Mint accidentally made 40 copper pennies. It happened when copper-alloy blanks remained in the press hopper when production began on the new steel pennies. In , pennies were no longer made with tin. In , the penny was made of Many of the reasons for eliminating the penny apply to other coins as well. Inflation has destroyed the value of nickels and dimes as well as pennies. Their lowest coin could buy what the quarter does today. Our pockets would be lighter by not having to make the additional change. Time spent at the register would be less without having to count out dimes, nickels, and pennies. And no one would have to wonder where to cash in coins. Punishments like these are not only ineffective, the anxiety they cause may actually worsen the house soiling problem.

Conclusions A common and frustrating problem, inappropriate elimination can be difficult to control. A full resolution depends on early intervention, followed by detective work to determine the cause of the behavior, and time and effort on your part to solve the problem. In partnership with veterinarians, both cats and the people who love them can live in harmony and good health. If you're having problems, your cat may have medical problems, an aversion to the litter box, the litter itself, or the location, or she may have a preference for another location.

A number of different medical conditions can interfere with normal urination and defecation. Cats who are having problems using the litter box consistently should be checked by a veterinarian. Spraying : Cats spray urine to mark their territory. A cat who is spraying will typically hold his or her tail erect and quiver while spraying urine, often on an upright surface. Small kittens and cats with joint pain need a box with low sides. Many cats object to foul odors, so clean the box regularly and use a non-scented litter. Here are some patterns that may point to a cause: Does she prefer a certain type of surface? If so, it may be possible to modify your litter to match it.

If she likes soft surfaces like carpeting, buy a softer, finer litter, and put a carpet remnant in her box. If she has a penchant for smooth, shiny surfaces, consider putting tiles in her box, covered with only a small amount of litter. Over time more litter can be added. Is there a certain location she prefers? She may have developed a preference for a new area because something bothered her about the old area.

Once she reliably uses it, gradually move the box just a few inches a day back to the desired location. Stop moving the box if she stops using it; instead simply move it back to the spot where she last reliably used it, then gradually begin moving it again. This may make your cat afraid to use the box. If you currently use a covered box, replace it with one that gives her a degree view. Also, position the box so that she has more than one way out i. Finally, place multiple boxes in multiple locations to give your cat more options. When your cat uses the box, does he cry, refuse to bury his waste, perch on the edge of the box without touching the litter, or eliminate right near the box? If so, first be sure the box is clean. Some cats refuse to use a box containing any urine or feces whatsoever.

If you must switch brands, do so gradually, adding small amounts of new litter to the old. Most cats prefer unscented litter. The box itself may be the offender. Larger cats need bigger boxes, and kittens and elderly cats need boxes with low sides. You may need to purchase several types of boxes and several types of litter to determine which combination your cat likes best. Provide as many boxes as there are cats in the house, plus one. This decreases competition and gives each cat a box of his or her own. Sheets of plastic, newspaper, or sandpaper, electronic mats that deliver harmless, mild shocks, or a carpet runner with the nubs facing up can be used to discourage your cat from entering a soil-prone area.

Try changing the significance of a soiled area. Cats prefer to eat and eliminate in separate areas, so try placing food bowls and treats in previously soiled areas. Playing with your cat in that space and leaving toys there may also be helpful. Try denying your cat access to a given area by closing doors, or by covering the area with furniture or plants. Baby gates will not keep a cat out of a room. Catch him in the act. A bell on a breakaway collar tells you his whereabouts. If you can catch him within the first seconds of his elimination routine, startle him with a water gun or shake a jar of pennies, so that he associates being startled with those actions.

It is important that you startle rather than scare him; fear will only worsen the problem. Consulting with a veterinary behaviorist may provide important insight into the cause of inappropriate elimination and potential strategies to address this common problem. Consider spaying or neutering. If your cat is intact, consider having him or her neutered or spayed. Cats are often driven to spray by hormones, and neutering or spaying will reduce the influence of hormones on this behavior. Identify and remove stimuli. Identify stimuli that cause your cat to spray.

If outside cats are responsible, motion detectors that trigger sprinklers can be used to deter them from coming onto your property. Additionally, you can discourage your cat from looking outside by closing blinds or shades, or by placing double-sided tape or electronic mats that deliver mild shocks onto your windowsills. Ease her frustrations. If you are introducing a new diet , for instance, do it gradually or discontinue it until the spraying is under control. Separate feuding cats. Spraying can result from territorial disputes between cats in the same household. They may need to be separated and reintroduced slowly, using food treats to reward and encourage peaceful behavior.

Clean sprayed areas. Applying odor neutralizers anywhere your cat has sprayed may prevent him from spraying there again. Another useful commercial product is Feliway, a synthetic pheromone that, when applied to household surfaces, mimics the scent of cat cheek gland secretions. Many cats will not spray on areas that have this scent.

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